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Wednesday, January 04, 2006

Intro - Najava

Vo nedostatok na vreme dve informacii.

Prvo blagodarnost do site koi izrazivte podrska za nekoi aktivnosti na blogov i zelba da se organizirame za nesto poseriozno.

Cuvstvuvam potreba da vi objasnam deka poradi profesionalni promeni vo mojot zivot blogov bese staven vo miruvanje i najavuvam deka toa naskoro ke zavrsi. So polna parea prodolzuvame narednata nedela.

Thanks to all friend who give me support in all activities conected with this blog and more.
However I must to explane something. There was a pause in my activities during some profesional changes in my live which were very intensive and time demanding. But from next week we are on the road again.

P.S. Komojuterov na koj sto sum vo momentov nema makedonska podrska.

Saturday, November 26, 2005

Back from Romania

Hello

Problems and more problems....
Romania was not and good experience 4 day lost in "translation". Coming back home was also bad experience with Chez Airlines - (don't use this company - ever).
Aconcaqua plan also with some money problems but solution is very close. In the meantime training activities are running according to planned agenda. Every weekend I’m killing my previous time records on the mountains in Macedonia. Next thing to do is to buy winter equipment and start with some intensive winter training sessions. So far there are two options - Bulgaria and Slovenia. I would appreciate some recommendations regarding winter climbs in Bulgaria and Slovenia, so if somebody know something please write a comment.

Post coming soon:

1. Interview with some people from 1989 Mont Everest expedition: Viktor Groselj from Slovenia, Borce Petkovski from Macedonia.....
2. An article about all Macedonian Himalaya expeditions in the past.

Thanks,

Wednesday, November 09, 2005

Info

Last weekend Titov Vrv happened for second time in 10 days and it was excellent.
Two new information in this post:

1. I going in Romania for several days so there will be a gap on the blog. Maybe I will climb some mountain:))))

2. The trip for Aconcaqua is in the final planning phase, so February 2006 - next week more information: training agenda, team members, route, agency ect.

3. Next week also there will be a post about greatest Macedonian climber ever - Dimitar Ilievski - Murato.

Climb on friends...

Monday, October 24, 2005

Titov Vrv 2.747m - Shar Planina

Titov Vrv 2.747m is the highest peak on Shar Planina (link do Sara ) (the biggest massif in Macedonia). This weekend my friends Nenad Radeski and Jane Stefanov and me climbed Titov Vrv in four hours on non-standard route.

Nenad and Jane pointing at the summit.

This is funny thing but the route was not standard by mistake we done take right one kilometer before the mountaineering markation and this prolonged ascent to the summit for one more hour. However like all mountains in Macedonia – Sar Planina was gorgeous that day.



...and more....



The weather was mixed there was sun as you can see on the photos, but also very strong wind on the summit. On the way down the weather become very bad with low visibility and heavy wind. The route is starting in Popova Sapka one of two biggest Macedonian ski resort. From Skopje (capitol of R.Macedonia) Popova Sapka is one hour long drive approximately 70 Km. There are a lot of Hotels open during all year, but also you can find private rooms and few very cheep mountaineering hut’s also open. From Popova Sapka there is a macadam road you should follow until you reach mountaineering markation – 45 minutes hike. The place where the real climb starting is named Orlovi Steni (Eagles Rocks).....
.... and from here let’s say demanding walk for 2 hours with some near vertical climb (not technical and rock-climb) and the summit is there. On the very summit there is something that we could named hut it’s open but there is nothing inside – so in a way this are build rock without windows, flour etc.


View from the summit is wonderful the Sar Planina massif is visible if the weather is nice. When we arrive on the summit the sun show up – the goods liked us.








We sow the first snow this upcoming winter on the top.
On the way down the weather become very bad with low visibility and heavy wind. We meet four experienced mountaineers descending and we wait 30 minutes for them so we could go together. This was good decision for several reasons. But the most important for me was that between them was Petar Mitrov – Pepi member of Macedonian Aconcaqua expedition in 1994.


He (left on the photo) summited Aconcaqua in only five days from the base camp. I ask him a million questions regarding the fact my plans for Aconcaqua-climb in the near future. This experience meeting him was excellent.

New thing is that I admit – I have some Aconcaqua plans for very near future, but before I start to post information about I would like everything to be finished: dates, training process, money, team…and more.

How my body felt climbing Titov Vrv? My stomach give me a hard start first one-hour (I solved the problem but it was very cold). My upper body is in good shape and this is maybe my strongest side. During the climb I had some 8 – 10 Kg on my back and I was walking without problems. However I still must work on my stamina – a lot of cardio exercises. Also must lose some weight I thing this is crucial for my knees. They were OK regarding the ITBS problems, but before summit I felt some pain in front where the kneecap is. It was not big pain, but I don’t want to have it again.

How my spirit felt climbing Titov Vrv? Haaah…excellent. Here is the place for one of the best photos from Titov Vrv - moon and the summit.



More photos from Titov Vrv very soon will be add in the photo page of this blog.

Friday, October 21, 2005

7 Summits and 14 - 8.000m for Macedonian audience

This post is targeting Macedonian audience therefore will be written in Macedonia cirilic alfabet. Regarding the fact that there is a very few information written in my language about 7 summits and 14 – 8.000m list peak.

Суетата и престижот се присутни и во светот на планинарите иако тоа на прва рака изгледа многу чудно имајќи на ум дека се работи за луѓе кои се вљубени во природата. Но, човековата слабост и слободен пад се дел од севкупната природа така што нема ништо лошо во овие можеби не секогаш разбрани „карактеристики“.

Во светот постојат 14 врвови кои се повисоки од 8.000м и тие претставуваат најимпресивната листа на врвови кои еден планинар може да ги освои. Сите оние кои ги имаат освоено 14 – те врвови се сметаат за членови на најекслузивниот планинарски клуб во светот. Прв човек кој ја има заокружено 14 – ката е Реинхолд Меснер легенда во светот на планинарењето. Меснер во 1986 го комплетира списокот освојувајќи го Лотсе. Списокот на оние малкумина по него го имате на овој линк.

10 од овие врвови се наоѓаат на Хималаите, а останатите 4 се на Каракорам масивот кој иако е во близина технички не им припаќа на Хималаите. Листата на 14 врвови изгледа вака :




1. Монт Еверест – 8.848м
2. К2 – 8.611м
3. Канченчунга – 8.598м
4. Лотсе – 8.501м
5. Макалу – 8.481м
6. Чо Оју – 8.201м
7. Даулагири – 8.167м
8. Манаслу-8.163м
9. Нанга Парбат 8.125м
10. Анапурна 8.091м
11. Гашербрум 1 – 8.086м
12. Броад Peak – 8.047м
13. Гашербрум 2 – 8.035м
14. Xixabangma Feng – 8.027m

Се извинувам, но неможев соодветно да ги преведам 12 и 14 и ги ставив во латинична форма. Р. Македонија има досега две експедиции (можеби грешам) на овие 14 химајалци и тоа : 1986 година Јован Поповски ја води големата експедиција од 14 лица од поранешна СФРЈ на Манаслу 8.163м. Во оваа екседиција се наоѓа и ѕверот/легендата на македонскиот алпинизам Димитар Илиевски Мурато. Манаслу во 1986 сепак останува неосвоен. Затоа пак во експедицијата од 1989 година водена повторно од Јован Поповски, Димитар – Мурато го освојува Монт Еверест, но за жал не се враќа во Македонија. За македонските големи експедиции во иднина ќе пишувам многу подетално, а ова може да биде само еден мал вовед.

Продолжувам со врвовите. Покрај фамозната 14 – ка, како втора најпожелна листа во светот на планинарите се смета онаа на 7 – врвови или попрецизно највисоките точки на сите седум континенти.

1. Монт Еверест – Азија – 8.484м
2. Аконкагва – Јужна Америка – 6.970м
3. Мек Кинли – Денали – Северна Америка – 6.194м
4. Килиманџаро – Африка – 5.892м
5. Елбрус – Европа – 5.633мќ
6. Винсон – Антартик – 4.897м
7. Пунчак Јала – Австралија-Океанија – 4.884м

Ова е официјалната листа на седумтте врвови усогласена после некои натегања од типот дали тука му е местото на Елбрус бидејќи како дел од Кавказ влегува во Европа само за стотина километри и слично.



Најтежок после Мотн Еверест е Винсон на Антартик поради далечината и ептен вечниот снег. Прв оваа листа ја има комплетирано Дик Бас во 1985 освојувајќи го Еверест. Од балканските простори Стипе Божиќ од Хрватска ја има пополнето оваа листа и многу повеќе. Македонски експедиции покрај веќе спомнатите ги имаат освоено : Аконкагва 1994 година, Елбрус и Килиманџаро во поновата историја (повеќе во блиска иднина нели).

Листата со имиња на светски планинари кои ја имаат седумката под нивните нозе ја имате тука.

Како за крај прашање. Каде е Македонија на овие листи ? Уффффф... тежок одговор и тешко прашање. Па ја нема баш многу драги мои, но тоа не значи дека така ќе остане. Треба да почнеме да развиваме стратегии, да се работи и многу – ужасно многу да се подготвуваме. Ако веќе ги немаме ѕверовите треба барем да ги создаваме или да почекаме да се родат.

Со почит

Short info

Past weekend started with every-day training exercises: morning cardio combined in the after work with straight and real-world climb switched every second day. Almost summited Solunska Glava past weekend but added new route to Summitpost
Nice thing is that I felt perfect during this harder hike on a very bad weather. Sorry but there is no photos this time - forget my camera - it happens:-)

Tomorrow going on Sar Planina – one of the biggest massif in Macedonia to climb Titov Vrv 2.747m – wait full report and I wont forget my camera this time.

Wednesday, October 12, 2005

Near perfect training weekend

Saturday: Me my friend Nenad and his brother Darko climb to Vodno Mountain 1066m and than trek 18 Km to Matka (rock climbing and picking destination near Skopje). I felt almost perfect except on the half way acceding my stomach give me a low kick don’t know why. However my ITBS didn’t wake up. That stretching exercises and other ideas from Summitpost members seems to help a lot.



Sunday: I climb Vodno with my personal record 1 hour and 10 minutes (wanted time less than 60 minutes). No problems with my stomach, ITBS – probably one of the things I should have on my mind is my one “pace” don’t follow something that you can’t achieve.





Vodno is very popular mountain in Skopje (capitol od R. Macedonia). It’s a small mountain only 1066m. But you can choose the treks – more demanding or less. There is a wonderful view from the summit on Skopje (when the weather is nice), also on the south side you could see Solunska Glava summit. From the summit there is a nice 18 Km - trek to Matka Dam – another very famous canoe and rock climbing resort.






This summit was very first summit for my son, Ognen Bosnjakovski on his own. He summited on his 4 birthday this year 24 september.


Wednesday, October 05, 2005

Korab - 2.764 m

Golem Korab is the highest peak in R. Macedonia. There are some information that Korab is actually higher than Triglav but they are not confirmed yet (this is in a way important for some people becouse we lived in the same country Yugoslavia and Triglav was know as the highest peak). However trek and climb on Korab are very fascinating - but the problem is that they are available only in particular time in year and not because of weather conditions. The reason is that Korab is located on the borderline between Macedonia and Albania and you need permition from Ministry of Interior to go there. From another point that permition is not hard to take, but it’s administrative bullsheet. Best attempt for Korab is 8 September every year. This is national holiday “Day of Independence” in Macedonia and Mountaineering Association KORAB is organizing group climb.

This year 2005 on 04 September me and few of my friend join the mountaineers from all Balkan Peninsula on Korab. We arrived in Border police station “Pobeda” around 08:00 in the morning and the ascent started in 09:00. There were a lot of mountain people on the route.



I was going very well actually I left my friends behind me for about 40 minutes after the Sheep-house.



One hour after the location on the photo my knee problem said STOOOOP – and I stop and try to recover with some stretching exercises.






I stay there about 40 minutes and my friend arrived. Two of them continued and summited Korab.



Dragan Antonovski and Mirjana Mickovska the summiters (photo taken early in the morning).

Rest of them (Biljana my sister, Bube my girfriend and Vlado my friend) went back down with me at the Pobeda-station. It was their choice they wanted to stop going.

Here is the place where I could no go more -



More information about Korab in English you can find here; Korab on Summitpost

Solunska Glava 2.540 m

About Solunska Glava there is very good web page on Summitpost done by Velebit. All informations there are very good and very useful.

Here is my short trip report story from August,2005.

Trip to hut Ceples from Skopje was 3 hours long. Me and my friend Vlado for the first time were going in this direction by car. The road Skopje – Veles – Vilage Bogomila –Village Nezilovo is decent. But from Nezilovo to Ceples hut is very bad Macadam – some will say only 4X4 drive could go, but my Citroen BX managed OK.

Ceples Hut


At 07 in the morning we started ascent and after 1,5 hours we reached to the place named “Babina dupka” or in English something like “Grandmother hole” J. View on Solunska Glava peak is perfect from this point.



After “Babina dupka” very hard but beautiful part of the route 1 hour long one after which we reached the plateau and peak was near.




We step on the summit one hour after this point (photo up) on the route. I felt perfect and I didn’t have any kind of problems during the ascent. Going down my knee started to hurt (I found out that it’s ITBS – thing). We arrived at Ceples hut 15:00 and that 3 hours drive to Skopje. On the way back several nice photos.

Village of Teovo old door…



Old bridge near V. Bogomila..



Old house in green grass….



Photo Old balcony in Bogomila..



So that’s it.

Medenica peak on Bistra mountain

Recently I started posting on Summitpost and becouse the idea is not to repeat myself here is the link to Medenica page. In the future I will post pages like this on summitpost and here on the blog you could find more personal trip reports from my climbs.

Few things to add about Medenica. This is my very first summit I climbed (it was not mountaineering motivated climb) with my grandfather when I had 6 years.



Here is photo of Galicnik vilage in western part of Macedonia. My origin is from Galicnik, my grandfather was born here (he lived in Skopje) and every summer as a kid I was there.



I almost forgat - on 18 september I summited Medenica together with my friend Goran Pavlovski (on the photo behind him is Korab).

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